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Thread: New Pneu X-Kitty

  1. #1

    New Pneu X-Kitty

    So I picked up the X-Kitty clear-to-pink C&C X-Mag body off PBLegion back in 2010. I had plans for it but life got in the way and was kept in my paintball totes until this month.

    I had also acquired the Reverse ReTro valve, raw TunaBlade and PTP eMicro lowers with finger grooves and humped backstrap. The battery pack looks like a C&C X-Mag one but has XMT's "XT" logo on the bottom. The last couple weeks I obtained the C&C Warp left breech and Luke's aluminum AO panels.

    I'd much prefer a Reverse X valve, so if you have one you'd be willing to sell or have a lead on one please let me know! Got one thanks to RogueFactor!









    I want to keep it a hybrid but a mech/pneu hybrid (because I don't do electronic markers). I already gutted the electric internals and will tinker with fitting in a pneu system - after the RT works normally first.

    Reading up on past threads about the X-Kitty, it is a factory AGD X-Mag ano job and was used by AGD Pride factory team member Claire - although it seemed rather troublesome for her.

    QUESTION
    The body is a bit beat up in places but good overall. Should I keep it in "survivor" condition and only anodize the other parts to match,
    >>OR<<
    Should I get the body and all parts anodized at once (in a similar matching clear-pink scheme)?

    I'm hoping to have it purring again by Halloween soon.
    Last edited by Walking Stick; 11-29-2017 at 08:55 AM. Reason: UPDATE
    >>WTB<< Sydarm w/ constant air__WarpedMephisto half-c/f body__Ac!d c/f trigger__TASO humpback frame__an Oh-Mag

  2. #2
    It's the X-kitty. Giving her a facelift doesn't make her not the x-kitty.
    I say do the whole thing all at once. That way you have the best chance of matching possible and you won't have shiny lowers with duller uppers.
    Best of luck and look forward to seeing this thing all finished.

  3. #3
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    I think I have the matching barrel for that....

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    I think I have the matching barrel for that....
    I believe you do if you're thinking the one I gave you.


    XKitty was known to be a problem gun. It was very difficult to get and keep working. Before spending a ton on ano please make sure its working correctly.
    Quote Originally Posted by dano_____ View Post
    I keep forgetting to not feed my mags after midnight so they seem to multiply regularly.

  5. #5
    Big Evil:
    I'd be interested to see what you have because these are the only barrels I see in the pics scattered around the interwebs.





    Cougar20th:
    The history of X-Kitty problems and my lack of interest in electric markers is the reason I decided to gut the eMicro frame. I'll definitely get it to operate in mech mode first (pre-ano) before trying to hybridize it with a pneu setup. I'm hoping X-Kitty ain't that much of a **** to get to RT like a normal Automag.

  6. #6
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    Looks like a fun build. I would build as a survivor and keep the legacy of the marker. Once you start to reanodize Xmags over and over again, things start to get messed up. It looks like you will need to get most of your parts clear anodized. Stephen @ Caustic Customs is the best out there. It cost me around $160 to do something very similar with an SFL emag. He could also get the e-mag lowers to match with the fade as well.

    Check out Xmagworld.com for more pictures of the X-Kitty.

    https://xmagworld.com/2012/12/22/legendary-x-mags/


    Btw, I believe this Xmag was created in the first batch that A+ Anodizing did for the first few xmags....



    What are you leaning towards?

  7. #7
    Wow, lighting makes such a difference! My pics look more purple while yours and those on xmagworld definitely look more pink - not that I'm afraid of pink seeing that I drive a Furious Fuchsia Dodge Challenger!

    You make a good point about the tolerances, Bunny. Stripping off old ano, polishing, re-ano...on a marker that was already known to be temperamental. Does anyone know the exact specifics of the issues Claire had with it? I really didn't find that kind of info in searching.

    I had already pegged Caustic Customs in my head for this job due to his reputation in the AO community and ability to match existing patterns and colors extremely well. If I ever acquire a Reverse X valve it'll go to him as well to become X-Kitty pink. Then maybe find someone to laser engrave the Hello Kitty on it.

  8. #8
    The grey part of a ReTro, RT Pro, E-MAG is aluminum, right?

    I'd like to anodize my Reverse ReTro pink to match but haven't seen any pics of that style valve anodized.

  9. #9
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    pretty sure it is, put a magnet to it.

  10. #10
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    Yes it is Al and can be anodized

  11. #11
    While talking with Stephen at Caustic I found out the grey aluminum on ReTro/Emag/RTPro is Type III hard anodized which would remove too much aluminum in the stripping process and likely alter tolerances drastically.

    So still on the lookout for a Reverse X, but considering other options to color over the grey - maybe paint, Cerakote, hydro dipping or even vinyl wrapping it.


    In the meantime, here's a simple drawing I did to help visualize my concept.

    Last edited by Walking Stick; 09-26-2017 at 11:48 AM. Reason: Pic

  12. #12
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    i know a certain person with raw X valves but he may not wish to part with any of them yet.

  13. #13
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    I might just have a dust black reverse XValve. I happen to also know the person who still has the original X-Kitty grip panels made by Frymarker and has the Frymark signature scribed into the panels.

  14. #14
    Talking to you both.
    Thank you.

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    Any movement on this? I'd love to see a finished product.

  16. #16
    I was working on my Model 98s and Desert Foxes most recently leaving this on the back burner. But here's a post-Thanksgiving update.

    I did acquire a completely blank, matte black Reverse X valve but when I talked to Tuna about disassembling it for re-ano he said it would not be a good idea and probably ruin the valve. So I'm in limbo on what to do currently. Maybe just keep the valve black since the X-Kitty originally used a black X-Mag valve.

    I have to send Palmer's Pursuit Shop an email about laser engraving since they have it done to all of their Stabilizers and Micro Rocks. Further exploring that option now that I know what I'd want (the simple Hello Kitty face but with the X-valve "X" replacing the bow).

    I started to file the aluminum panels that need trimmed to better match up to the PTP E-Mag frame grooves - I guess I should finish that. Then get the marker running and RTing with both valves so I can send it all off to ano.

  17. #17
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    I like it. Hopefully the engraving won't have the same issue that the Nightmare before Xmag did.

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Side View Post
    I like it. Hopefully the engraving won't have the same issue that the Nightmare before Xmag did.
    What happened to the lasering on it?

    UPDATES:

    So here's the crude superimposed image and drawing I did on my phone that I sent to Craig Palmer.



    And this is what came back in December:




    I sent in the vertical breech to BigEvil and this is what came back:





    Can't complain about any of the work done so far. Up next is to send the valve to Tuna for proper reassembly, finish filing the Lc EM aluminum panels to align with the PTP eMicro frame contours, and figure out pneumatics installation. Then it'll finally be ready for ano.

  19. #19
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    Are you planning to remove the emag selector switch? Would be nice if it didn't rub the new anno.

    I like the kitty laser idea. seems fitting.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    Are you planning to remove the emag selector switch? Would be nice if it didn't rub the new anno.

    I like the kitty laser idea. seems fitting.
    Or switch it to the stock plastic one

  21. #21
    Huh, yins're right. I just got my Shockwave E-Mag in and its selector switch is indeed plastic. Is the aluminum selector switch a PTP eMicro frame difference or was it an aftermarket part sourced from Tuna or Luke's Customs?


    Loguzzzzzz was kind enough to send me some photos of his gutted, milled and pneu'd EM frame. If anyone knows of any others done, please share with me any internal pics, the builder and any possible tips or guide. Thanks AO!

  22. #22
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    I used the selector switch as a safety...
    ......You know you want one!!

  23. #23
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    I can't wait to see the end result. Things are looking good so far!! Btw, not sure about that Bone Daddy comment. If I remember correctly there were issues with the Anodizer "PrecisionPB" and Odd. I think they had to redo it a few times.

    I'm so glad to see you are doing an original build!

  24. #24
    Wait wait... hold on a tick. Not to hijack this thread, but Walking Stick... you said yins... When this beautiful marker is complete, will you take it to the field to play? I would love to see it in person!

  25. #25
    I will treat this marker a bit gentler (no diving with it) to keep the body from further damage and wear. Strangely, my only wall hangers will be my factory special edition Kameleon and Marbleized Model 98s.

    Now that I'm back into the paintball fold all my markers are going to be used. I'll have a healthy rotation of 'Mags, Model 98s, SL-68s, ICE Epics, Novas and Desert Foxes to take around to Urban Assault, P3, Steeltown and Three Rivers (hopefully an outing at least once a month). Excursions to other Mid-Atlantic/Northeast venues events will largely depend on any scheduling conflicts (semester schedule, work schedule, drill weekends, autocross events, track days, rock crawling, rock climbing, shooting days, wifey/familial commitments...).

  26. #26
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    Please put a little kitten paw sticking up a middle finger on the valve, too...
    Stay Classy, AO...
    BEO: RIP / Topgun Paintball: RIP / Old MCB: RIP

  27. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by zondo View Post
    Please put a little kitten paw sticking up a middle finger on the valve, too...
    Hrm, too late to laser it but it'd make for an amusing decal on the back of the valve, the side of the breeches, or the battery pack...

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