Minimag Build help

[Lanechaser]

Hey everyone,

New to the forum here. Played a lot back in the mid 90's-early 2000's and finally getting some free time to get back out on the field. My 3rd Marker I owned (after a Scorpion and a Piranha) was a Minimag, which I recently bought back from an old friend. He did not take great care of it. Spray painted the rail/sight rail which I was able to strip and looks alright again. Owned cockers, angels, timmys, impulses, shockers since that time but found myself always wanting my mag back. What a great time to have it back with all of the awesome new (to me) stuff out there

Anyways, I have a few parts on the way and some question about them. First up is a Y frame I have inbound. Will I need anything different (rail, sear, etc) to install and work correctly, or is it just plug and play?

Also have a lukes angled foregrip inbound. Will it work with a stock MM rail?

Ordering an RT on/off and pin for my Minimag valve. Is it worth it? Plan to get an x valve soon enough, but would like to have a dependable backup with a smooth/lighter trigger.

Will an x-valve drop in a standard minimag body/rail or is it intended for the ULE body?

Any other insights/recommendations appreciated. Thanks!

Starting point

[rawbutter]

Welcome to AO, and congrats on the Minimag. That's a great starting point, especially with the Benchmark frame.

Let's see about your questions.

Will I need anything different (rail, sear, etc) to install the Y frame, or is it just plug and play?

Most mag frames are plug and play, especially the ones straight from AGD. A few of the aftermarket frames (like the Logic frame, for instance) don't fit the shorter rails, but they are few and far between.

Also have a lukes angled foregrip inbound. Will it work with a stock MM rail?

No. There's a significant difference between the old classic AM/MM length rails and the newer RT length rails. The older, shorter rails only have one mounting hole in the front, while most of the newer rails have two mounting holes (or they have a groove for screws). You might be able to still mount the foregrip with only one screw, but then it could spin if it's not super, super tight.

(The old style foregrips got around this problem by having "wings" on the top that would hug the angled bottom of the rail and keep it from spinning.)

Ordering an RT on/off and pin for my Minimag valve. Is it worth it?

This is a matter of opinion. Personally I think that a double trigger (which you already have) makes a bigger difference than an RT on/off. But having both certainly doesn't hurt.

Will an x-valve drop in a standard minimag body/rail or is it intended for the ULE body?

You can drop an x-valve right into your Minimag. Shouldn't be a problem.

Good luck, and have fun.

Oh, and if the gun has been sitting for a while, you should order a parts kit from AGD when you get the RT on/off. You will probably need to replace all the seals sooner than later.

[Lanechaser]

Welcome to AO, and congrats on the Minimag. That's a great starting point, especially with the Benchmark frame.

Let's see about your questions.



Most mag frames are plug and play, especially the ones straight from AGD. A few of the aftermarket frames (like the Logic frame, for instance) don't fit the shorter rails, but they are few and far between.



No. There's a significant difference between the old classic AM/MM length rails and the newer RT length rails. The older, shorter rails only have one mounting hole in the front, while most of the newer rails have two mounting holes (or they have a groove for screws). You might be able to still mount the foregrip with only one screw, but then it could spin if it's not super, super tight.

(The old style foregrips got around this problem by having "wings" on the top that would hug the angled bottom of the rail and keep it from spinning.)



This is a matter of opinion. Personally I think that a double trigger (which you already have) makes a bigger difference than an RT on/off. But having both certainly doesn't hurt.



You can drop an x-valve right into your Minimag. Shouldn't be a problem.

Good luck, and have fun.

Oh, and if the gun has been sitting for a while, you should order a parts kit from AGD when you get the RT on/off. You will probably need to replace all the seals sooner than later.

Awesome info! Thanks man. Good to know on the lukes rail attachment. Will likely hold off on that one for now.

Now if I wanted to get a new rail, for instance http://lukescustoms.com/lukes-am-rails.html wave rail. Would this rail be a drop in fit with my minimag body? And would the lukes angled foregrip work with this one? (assuming so being Lukes also, but I am still new to all of this great innovation since I last played and not sure!)

[Lanechaser]

And yes it has been sitting for years now. I ordered an o-ring kit on ebay and going to order some oil along with the RT on/off here next week so hopefully that will be all I need for now

[Lanechaser]

I disagree, the Benchmark frame is probably the worst Automag frame ever made.



Yes, but you will need a foregrip slot machined if your rail doesn't already have one.



Yes.



Yes.

Info from the man himself! Thanks for taking the time to reply, Luke. Very much appreciated.

I would like to buy one of your wave rails soon. Is it possible/do you have any angled vertical adapters that are not set forward? Would like to have a 15* vertical adapter but not extended forward from the rail/stock position

[Lanechaser]

Y frame came in

[luke]

Info from the man himself! Thanks for taking the time to reply, Luke. Very much appreciated.

I would like to buy one of your wave rails soon. Is it possible/do you have any angled vertical adapters that are not set forward? Would like to have a 15* vertical adapter but not extended forward from the rail/stock position

I dont, sorry.

[Walking Stick]

You'll like the X-valve with Level 10 bolt. The X is much lighter with a faster recharge and the L10 will prevent chopping.

Looks good with the Y! Consider the 9.1" Lc Wave rail over the 8" one so you get that extra bit of space to move the foregrip more comfortably forward.

[Lanechaser]

You'll like the X-valve with Level 10 bolt. The X is much lighter with a faster recharge and the L10 will prevent chopping.

Looks good with the Y! Consider the 9.1" Lc Wave rail over the 8" one so you get that extra bit of space to move the foregrip more comfortably forward.

Thanks for the feedback! Yes I am thinking my next move will be an x valve, seems like the way to go.

The 9.1" Lc wave rail sounds like a better way to go. So it has a slide/groove to adjust the vertical forward or back? That sounds perfect. Will it work with the minimag body and ULE body as well, if I decide to upgrade to that soon?

It feels nice and compact but I'm thinking 1/2" to 1" further forward and a 15* vertical would have a nice feel to it

[Walking Stick]

Both Lc Wave rails have the recess for both the rectangular lug (ss bodies) and round lug (aluminum bodies) so you're good now and later.

I have a Y on my Micromag and it does feel like you're strangling a chicken. Get a feel for a vertical foregrip on the longer length rail first - I have two Z-Grips that feel fine with vertical grips just 1-3 inches forward of the frame.

If you feel you still need a 15° ASA/foregrip it looks like you have three options:
A) also buy a forward or reverse angle AM/MM foregrip extension from Lc
B) WAIT to find a flat-topped 15° ASA/foregrip (there is the Lc 3-pc foregrip readily available) and pick up a RT Pro/E-mag rail (Jake/captain pinky/superman has several for cheap) that are longer than AM/MM rails and accept flat-top foregrips
C) WAIT to find a flat-topped 15° ASA/foregrip (there is the Lc 3-pc foregrip readily available) and WAIT to find (and probably spend a pretty penny on) an aftermarket RTP/EM rail from older Lc stuff/RPG/XMT/et cetera

I'd put a priority on a Level 10 for your classic ss valve so you don't chop whether using an old agitated or new force-fed loader, and a Docs Machine ss Autococker thread adapter so you have a plethora of bore-sized barrel options. An X or ReTro valve can come later if you desire a higher ROF without shootdown or want the reactive trigger.

[Lanechaser]

Both Lc Wave rails have the recess for both the rectangular lug (ss bodies) and round lug (aluminum bodies) so you're good now and later.

I have a Y on my Micromag and it does feel like you're strangling a chicken. Get a feel for a vertical foregrip on the longer length rail first - I have two Z-Grips that feel fine with vertical grips just 1-3 inches forward of the frame.

If you feel you still need a 15° ASA/foregrip it looks like you have three options:
A) also buy a forward or reverse angle AM/MM foregrip extension from Lc
B) WAIT to find a flat-topped 15° ASA/foregrip (there is the Lc 3-pc foregrip readily available) and pick up a RT Pro/E-mag rail (Jake/captain pinky/superman has several for cheap) that are longer than AM/MM rails and accept flat-top foregrips
C) WAIT to find a flat-topped 15° ASA/foregrip (there is the Lc 3-pc foregrip readily available) and WAIT to find (and probably spend a pretty penny on) an aftermarket RTP/EM rail from older Lc stuff/RPG/XMT/et cetera

I'd put a priority on a Level 10 for your classic ss valve so you don't chop whether using an old agitated or new force-fed loader, and a Docs Machine ss Autococker thread adapter so you have a plethora of bore-sized barrel options. An X or ReTro valve can come later if you desire a higher ROF without shootdown or want the reactive trigger.

Great info, thanks man. I think you're right and I will try the rail/adjust the vertical forward first. chances are I will like that anyhow. Will likely go with an x valve sooner than later as I would like the higher ROF. Just need to make a couple more sales and understate the commission to my wife then bring some more "old gear from storage" out. So long as I can snipe the deliveries to my shop without notice

Thanks again for the feedback, I'll update soon when I have more to work with

[Lanechaser]

Alright so I have an RT on/off on the way along with spare parts to get this valve working for a backup. Going to get an X valve here soon and in the meantime I have some acrylic/pearl blocks in different colors and going to make some grip panels. We'll see how it turns out, made some for my 1911 once upon a time and turned out pretty well.
Progress..

[Lanechaser]

Changed over to a centerfeed smoke stack body. X valve headed this way in the mail.

If anyone has a black bike grip gas thru, I'd be happy to trade my red one. It's in perfect shape.

[Lanechaser]

Trying to figure out a 15* vertical adapter that would work with my stock rail. Came across this one and looks like it might fit. Anyone have input or tried?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAPCO-Paint...oAAOSwTw5Z4RM2

[Walking Stick]

For Cockers...so the wings probably won't match up correctly and it'll have the offset through-hole on one side for an Autococker's trigger/timing rod. Not worth the $25 experiment to me.

I don't see an Lc 9.1 Wave rail...did you order it? Lc is not going to make any more rails so if you want one you better snag it while you can!

[Lanechaser]

For Cockers...so the wings probably won't match up correctly and it'll have the offset through-hole on one side for an Autococker's trigger/timing rod. Not worth the $25 experiment to me.

I don't see an Lc 9.1 Wave rail...did you order it? Lc is not going to make any more rails so if you want one you better snag it while you can!

Haha well it was worth investigating! Thanks for the help.

I know, I know... I need the LC rail and it will look soo nice. Was going to order it but picked up a ULT X valve.

Business has been good so I will be splurging again soon!

On another note... I'm hesitant to do this... but considering cutting down the smoke stack and putting a 7/8 clamping feedneck to lower the profile. This body is in great shape though. Not a minimag vert feed which I would leave alone... but still hesitant to cut down an original. Will this be considered a or should I just go ahead and be practical?

[luke]

I don't see an Lc 9.1 Wave rail...did you order it? Lc is not going to make any more rails so if you want one you better snag it while you can!

I still have both lengths in stock> http://lukescustoms.com/lukes-am-rails.html

[Walking Stick]

Bad wording Luke, meant to say I didn't see your rail on his Mag yet.

You planning on keeping that sight rail? Unless it was splashed I'm not quite feeling it. Too much like old Kingman Spyder bling.

As you said Lanechaser, it's not a MM stovepipe so it shouldn't bother any Mag purists. Chop it and use a dual clamp feedneck like from Lapco or Palmer's. It should match up well with the black Teflon body.

[Lanechaser]

Bad wording Luke, meant to say I didn't see your rail on his Mag yet.

You planning on keeping that sight rail? Unless it was splashed I'm not quite feeling it. Too much like old Kingman Spyder bling.

As you said Lanechaser, it's not a MM stovepipe so it shouldn't bother any Mag purists. Chop it and use a dual clamp feedneck like from Lapco or Palmer's. It should match up well with the black Teflon body.

I can see that. I was thinking about having it anodized along with the rail eventually but it does look better with the rail off. Probably will become a cluster once I shorten the feedneck.

Got a 7/8 lapco on the way.

When all is said and done the minimag will be put back together for a backup/loaner and I'm only short of the rail once the xvalve arrives.

Got to love starting a "build" just to end up with that same marker and an entirely new one

[Lanechaser]

Might keep it pure for one day and put a bullseye on my hopper for laughs. Or modify some type of periscope...

[Lanechaser]

Anyone have experience shortening a center feed? Trying to get an idea where to cut. Thinking 1/8" to 1/4" or so above the vent hole unless anyone recommends otherwise?

[luke]

The cut looks rough but it's just left over solder that hasn't been cleaned off yet, this is how I would do it>

[luke]

If you're just going to remove the AGD feedcup and use a replacement slip-on Spyder type feedcup, just leave enough of the factory feedneck to attach the replacement.

[Lanechaser]

If you're just going to remove the AGD feedcup and use a replacement slip-on Spyder type feedcup, just leave enough of the factoryfeed neck to attach the replacement.

Thanks Luke. This is the direction I'm going. Will the vent hole play any important role, or is it okay to cut below it and just leave enough meat for the clamping feedneck?

[luke]

I think its more of a sight hole rather than a vent. I would just measure the depth of the slip-on sleeve and cut the factory neck that length from the top of the body where the bottom of the new feed will sit. That is if you want it as short as possible.

[Lanechaser]

Okay awesome thanks for the input. Would like as short as possible, so I will cut it where it lines up with the bottom half of the clamping feedneck and see how it turns out. I'll get a picture up later or tomorrow.

[Lanechaser]

[luke]

Well done.

[Lanechaser]

Alright just ordered the 9.1" wave rail. Found this benchmark rail and decided when all is said and done my minimag valve will go back in to this with the teflon VF body and I'm going to swap out the Y for a good single trigger. Will make for a nice classic backup/paint saver. Will only need a body after that for the x-valve/lukes rail/y frame. Will probably just go with a ULE, or may look at some of the $$$ bodies if work is well.

[Lanechaser]

Lukes 9.1" wave rail, carbon fiber 3 piece angled foregrip.

Feels much, much nicer. Thank you sir!