Auto mag RT help

[Nichocha33]

Recently getting back into the sport and picked me up another Mag. Left out of the game shooting a Mag classic and a bob long. Picking up a RT off of pbnation from a fella and looking to do some mods. Can’t stand the body, sight rail and fore grip, what’re my options if any? Mag has the lvl10 bolt just trying to pretty her up some or should I just plan on getting a different mag to clean up and use this one to lay the beat down on some electros?

[athomas]

The options for an RT are limited. The valve makes it unique in the mag lineup. That means you can't use the same body and rail upgrades that are available for all other mags.

[Nichocha33]

So should I pick up a classic and add the lvl10 and an xvalve with a vert feed body, and keep the RT stockish?

[Walking Stick]

The frame and bolt are pretty much all that will easily swap with a classic RT.

If you get a Twist-Lock barreled stainless steel body it beware of the rectrangular mounting stud which needs a rectangular recess in the rail. Those rails are usually AM/MM which are shorter and chamfered at the bottom edges for winged frames and foregrips. Wingless frames will work but it'll have small a ledge.

ULE bodies are Autococker barrel threaded with Angel threaded feedneck and detent, and has a round mounting stud. Most aftermarket rails along with AGD RT Pro/Emag/TacOne rails are flat bottomed and will work. It is definitely the more versatile option with plenty of cool unique parts to be found.

Confused? Either stick with a classic ss AM/MM build or a modern ULE build with X-valve. The Level 10 is definitely desired no matter what.

When you see stuff you like available (here, MCB, PBN or on one of several 'Mag/old school pb groups on FB) just ask here to confirm compatibility and prevent frustration/wasted funds.

[Nichocha33]

The frame and bolt are pretty much all that will easily swap with a classic RT.

If you get a Twist-Lock barreled stainless steel body it beware of the rectrangular mounting stud which needs a rectangular recess in the rail. Those rails are usually AM/MM which are shorter and chamfered at the bottom edges for winged frames and foregrips. Wingless frames will work but it'll have small a ledge.

ULE bodies are Autococker barrel threaded with Angel threaded feedneck and detent, and has a round mounting stud. Most aftermarket rails along with AGD RT Pro/Emag/TacOne rails are flat bottomed and will work. It is definitely the more versatile option with plenty of cool unique parts to be found.

Confused? Either stick with a classic ss AM/MM build or a modern ULE build with X-valve. The Level 10 is definitely desired no matter what.

When you see stuff you like available (here, MCB, PBN or on one of several 'Mag/old school pb groups on FB) just ask here to confirm compatibility and prevent frustration/wasted funds.

Thanks so much! A little daunting getting back into everything and trying to relearn. I appreciate your time and well explained answer.


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