Emag battery?

[trbo323]

Long story short I work at a shop and we just picked up a emag in a trade. The battery does not appear to hold a charge at all so I am wondering if it's possible to still get the batteries or if there is an option out there for a better battery as I'm sure battery tech has come a ways since these were produced.


Also, I was reading on warpig so granted the info is very old that 2 9v batteries can be wired in sequence to power the emag. Anyone know about doing this? With the parts that came with the marker I have a spare battery connection. The contacts on top of the battery assembly so if those can be wired up to use 9v batteries it would be a good option I suppose

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

[Tunaman]

Long story short I work at a shop and we just picked up a emag in a trade. The battery does not appear to hold a charge at all so I am wondering if it's possible to still get the batteries or if there is an option out there for a better battery as I'm sure battery tech has come a ways since these were produced.


Also, I was reading on warpig so granted the info is very old that 2 9v batteries can be wired in sequence to power the emag. Anyone know about doing this? With the parts that came with the marker I have a spare battery connection. The contacts on top of the battery assembly so if those can be wired up to use 9v batteries it would be a good option I suppose

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Cant use 2 9 volts. Not enough amperage. 800mah batteries are available for about 75 bucks or the AGD ones for 90.

[trbo323]

Besides the agd batteries which I'm confused if they are in stock or not (web page says they are in stock but also says they are working on getting more) what do I need to look for in a battery?

If I remember right the battery in it is 18v and 1200 mah

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

[MacDave]

If you can solder you can buy cells and rebuild the pack. Another option, if you have access to a welder, is to force a charge into the battery to break up deposits. I've used that method on nicd tool batteries with some success.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[Beemer]

Go here https://automags.org/forums/showthrea...RKM-3D-Designs post 3 and PM the dealer

[knownothingmags]

Go here https://automags.org/forums/showthrea...RKM-3D-Designs post 3 and PM the dealer

yeah let me know what you need.
if you decide you would like my option of emag battery

[JimBobFett]

You could convert to LiPo or Li-Ion and use a small battery battery booster / step up regulator to go from a lower voltage to a higher voltage. This would allow you to dial in the output voltage you want regardless of what the battery pack is at, within reason. You just need to find a battery booster that is small enough but can still handle putting out about 6 amps? Not sure what the stock E/X-Mag current through the coil gets up to... I converted mine to run at 7.4v (8.4v peak) off a LiPo and run at around 12 amps max (usually around 10 amps) when firing the coil. But I suspect the internal resistance of the stock battery is a bit higher and I'm doubting that the original coil gets the full 80 watts that it's rated at. A booster as low as 4A might be all that is needed (with a small 7.4v LiPo pack... just make sure they have a a high enough current rating like 30C if 500mah or 15C if 1000mah).

[knownothingmags]

You could convert to LiPo or Li-Ion and use a small battery battery booster / step up regulator to go from a lower voltage to a higher voltage. This would allow you to dial in the output voltage you want regardless of what the battery pack is at, within reason. You just need to find a battery booster that is small enough but can still handle putting out about 6 amps? Not sure what the stock E/X-Mag current through the coil gets up to... I converted mine to run at 7.4v (8.4v peak) off a LiPo and run at around 12 amps max (usually around 10 amps) when firing the coil. But I suspect the internal resistance of the stock battery is a bit higher and I'm doubting that the original coil gets the full 80 watts that it's rated at. A booster as low as 4A might be all that is needed (with a small 7.4v LiPo pack... just make sure they have a a high enough current rating like 30C if 500mah or 15C if 1000mah).

there is a whole discussion on this in a different thread. the key is getting the voltage cut off regulated by a board in a size that works.
i have already found 1000mah lipo cells to create packs, just need a voltage cutoff board, off the shelf that is stocked.

[trbo323]

As cool as all that sounds, that stuff is way over my head. Simple is better

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

[JimBobFett]

there is a whole discussion on this in a different thread. the key is getting the voltage cut off regulated by a board in a size that works.
i have already found 1000mah lipo cells to create packs, just need a voltage cutoff board, off the shelf that is stocked.

I've seen them on amazon & ebay just small enough to stick in a Battery Pack grip with a 550mah LiPo. Or with a little soldering work you can make your own which allows you some flexibility with component layout and mounting (directly to the aluminum case to eliminate sinks even).

*edit: I think this one should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP2LZ4M...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I just went the different route (I've talked about it with you before knownothing) of swapping out the coil for the lower voltage version and ditching the stock board for an Arduino because it is stupid cheap, simple, and tiny... with the 7.4v Lipo (550mah), power FET, and arduino (and a few resistors I soldered into the Picoblade cables) the whole control system fits in half of the volume of the battery case. I was going to stick with dual 18650 Li-Ion batteries since they are getting rather common, but having to wire up a sled and all that space it would take up wasn't worth it and who needs an E-Mag with 3000+mah of juice?

[JimBobFett]

As cool as all that sounds, that stuff is way over my head. Simple is better

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Simple you say? http://lukescustoms.com/emag-battery...egrip-asa.html
That slick little thing right there allows you to use the battery pack as a place to mount a LPR sleeper style... gut the electronics and make it a pneumag, lol. Okay, just kidding... not what you had in mind.

The mod I did only requires some basic soldering (wires to boards). The rest if off-the-shelf, cheap, and simple, but hey, I get it... not everyone wants a custom one-off. When I'm done programming all the modes to my liking I'll make the code public if it helps.

[knownothingmags]

I've seen them on amazon & ebay just small enough to stick in a Battery Pack grip with a 550mah LiPo. Or with a little soldering work you can make your own which allows you some flexibility with component layout and mounting (directly to the aluminum case to eliminate sinks even).

*edit: I think this one should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP2LZ4M...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I just went the different route (I've talked about it with you before knownothing) of swapping out the coil for the lower voltage version and ditching the stock board for an Arduino because it is stupid cheap, simple, and tiny... with the 7.4v Lipo (550mah), power FET, and arduino (and a few resistors I soldered into the Picoblade cables) the whole control system fits in half of the volume of the battery case. I was going to stick with dual 18650 Li-Ion batteries since they are getting rather common, but having to wire up a sled and all that space it would take up wasn't worth it and who needs an E-Mag with 3000+mah of juice?

that all looks good.
I just couldn't find a voltage cut off board myself that had a small enough footprint, for lipos. and I was also looking for 1000Mah rating.
if I would have went down to 550mah rating, packs would already be available. just didn't want people getting less shots per battery than the 800Mah NiMH rechargeable batteries AGD use to produce, and the 800mah ones I currently produce. and then even less shots than the 1000Mah hour batteries AGD currently produces and is working on restocking(from what I understand)

its really nice you are looking at a whole new setup for people.
but what I was tailoring to was keeping peoples current setups powered.
that is where I was trying to go for when I was making my packs.
I have some somewhere that fit into an emag pack that do have 3150mah . in lipo pack. I just don't know where or if it got lost in my many multiply military moves over the years.
I also back when I made that pack(s) (and was testing them) had personal access to a facility that produced the packs I was making.(friends and such) they are now combined and sold to another company and I don't have the access I use to have.

as a result currently my 800Mah Nimh batteries serve people well who are looking to power their setups

[Tunaman]

that all looks good.
I just couldn't find a voltage cut off board myself that had a small enough footprint, for lipos. and I was also looking for 1000Mah rating.
if I would have went down to 550mah rating, packs would already be available. just didn't want people getting less shots per battery than the 800Mah NiMH rechargeable batteries AGD use to produce, and the 800mah ones I currently produce. and then even less shots than the 1000Mah hour batteries AGD currently produces and is working on restocking(from what I understand)

its really nice you are looking at a whole new setup for people.
but what I was tailoring to was keeping peoples current setups powered.
that is where I was trying to go for when I was making my packs.
I have some somewhere that fit into an emag pack that do have 3150mah . in lipo pack. I just don't know where or if it got lost in my many multiply military moves over the years.
I also back when I made that pack(s) (and was testing them) had personal access to a facility that produced the packs I was making.(friends and such) they are now combined and sold to another company and I don't have the access I use to have.

as a result currently my 800Mah Nimh batteries serve people well who are looking to power their setups

As you already know, 800mah is PLENTY for an Emag. You WONT run out of battery power unless you shoot 5 cases a day. Your batteries work just fine.

[knownothingmags]

As you already know, 800mah is PLENTY for an Emag. You WONT run out of battery power unless you shoot 5 cases a day. Your batteries work just fine.

yes, that's a good point to hit on. the 3150 is super over kill. it allowed me to not have a voltage cut off board when I was testing because it would never dip to unsafe voltage during testing, in between charges.

[JimBobFett]

I'm going with these: GNB 550mah 2s 7.4v 80c Lipo Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DCFLQJ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Since I'm still using the 80watt coil, just half the voltage and double the amps roughly, its really just 1/4 the battery power. However, I could stuff 2 of those batteries in the emag grip if I wanted. But who cares? Its not a NiCad that costs $50 and takes half a day to charge. Its a $10 battery that I can swap out in a minute with its XP30 plug and charge during a beer break. Lipo chargers can do multiple at once too. I'm adding in a simple voltage sensing circuit also so that when its close to being out, it can use the bluetooth to give an alert on the phone.

[knownothingmags]

I'm going with these: GNB 550mah 2s 7.4v 80c Lipo Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DCFLQJ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Since I'm still using the 80watt coil, just half the voltage and double the amps roughly, its really just 1/4 the battery power. However, I could stuff 2 of those batteries in the emag grip if I wanted. But who cares? Its not a NiCad that costs $50 and takes half a day to charge. Its a $10 battery that I can swap out in a minute with its XP30 plug and charge during a beer break. Lipo chargers can do multiple at once too. I'm adding in a simple voltage sensing circuit also so that when its close to being out, it can use the bluetooth to give an alert on the phone.

thats awesome
dont pat yourself too hard on the back just poking fun,

you should track down the facility that those packs are sourced from, data sheets, honor stamps to show where they actually come from.
there are some facilities you should research and make sure your lipos dont come from. because there are facilities that make pretty good failure lipos and im pretty sure alot of people dont want their 400-????$ marker up in flames from a 13 $ purchase.
not saying those will do that.

there is a reason the EMAG batteries work. quality without question,(other than the specs you need to adhere to )
oh and i can charge multiple emag batteries at my place(mind you most people dont get that opertunity) and i can charge them all in less than an hour

it is great to see the work you are going toward on this.
i went a different route i started doing different things instead of perusing the lipo battery for the emags, otherwise like i said we would have them already.
my 2cents. and it may mean nothing.
and im no expert since i already know where your education lies.
keep the progress forward this is awesome.

edit ** when you say close to being out you mean the safe cutoff of 3.4 volts per cell correct?(bare min of 3.1 volts?)

[JimBobFett]

Lol, no I won't pat myself on the back too soon: Found a HES for the trigger that I like better than the original and others I've tried (it's self adjusting/tuning and just gives a digital out!!!), the battery/FET/coil works just fine... but there's something off about that Kodenshi sg-2bc reflective sensor. I haven't spent a whole lot of time on it yet since its not a functional requirement, but I've either got to spend more time tuning it, I need to pick a different circuit design, or I have a few bad samples. I think I saw a schematic a long time ago for a board, but if you know of any X-Mag circuit diagrams for the ACE board's eye circuit... I sure could use some reference material for resistor values or something. Something isn't right with that thing. I'm also looking at newer alternatives though too since that sensor is pretty old.

As for batteries, I've been going with online reviews mostly (hardly the most reliable, I know), but I'm not too scared. It seems LiPo's are the riskiest when charging... and they should be removed for that anyways. As for discharge... I'm only asking for ~12 amps at less than 10% duty cycle on a battery rated for up to 44 amps. I guess what I'm trying to say is that these hobbyist 'drone' batteries are meant for much tougher than what I'm asking from them. Still, sure... its always possible that they may catch fire... but what will it really destroy? The battery is cheap, some plugs/wiring, a $15 bluno board, and a $3 power FET board. If it starts to smoke, undo the thumb-screw, pop off the battery pack and yank the guts out (the battery, and 2 boards just slide right out).

As for the cutoff, I'm measuring the input voltage, not each cell. The threshold can be set to whatever I like. I'm just wiring up a couple 1M resistors to make a voltage divider circuit and running the middle node to an analog input. The voltage sensed will be 1/2 the actual voltage. I compare this to a number I can adjust, and if it falls below that threshold, I send out an alert. If I want to always run peak power, I could set the threshold at 8v (peak is 8.4v) and change batteries more often. Whatever works.