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Thread: New Year Tech Quiz ... well kinda

  1. #1

    New Year Tech Quiz ... well kinda

    Hi everyone,

    So here’s a New Year quiz for you all! (actually it’s some questions I have dressed up as a quiz for fun! no prize just bragging rights for the most knowledgeable)

    1 - I’ve found some bits marked as “mag spares” see attached pictures, parts numbered 1-43 can you identify the parts?

    2 - I presume 21 -24 are the same part but whats the difference were they for different markers?

    3 - what’s the functional difference between numbers 25 and 26?

    4 - what’s the functional difference between numbers 33, 34 and 35?

    5 - why is there a different retainer on 42 and 43?

    6 - What’s the best way to protect ageing spare parts both orings and hard parts to prevent them going bad?

    Answers I’ve been able to put together are in the next post!

    Thanks in advance,


    Al...

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    Last edited by Alan Smith; 01-05-2019 at 10:17 AM.

  2. #2
    Answers consolidated here:

    Questions:
    1 -
    2 -
    3 -
    4 -
    5 -
    6 - "to keep orings fresh is to keep them out of the light and to keep them sealed in something airtight. A military metal ammo can in my basement...cool, dark, airtight. The orings I take with me in my gear to games are kept in contact lens cases. They can be segregated and organized and kept in something that keeps them away from light and open air. As far as metal parts, keep them in something airtight and coated in light oil or even a light grease. Preventing corrosion is your goal here.
    As far as metal parts, keep them in something airtight and coated in light oil or even a light grease. Preventing corrosion is your goal here.” Thanks JKR great answer!


    Parts Identification:
    1 -
    2 - 018 - RT/classic/mini barrel O-Ring 90 duro urethane
    3 - 018
    4 - 015
    5 - 015 - asa tank O-Ring 90 duro urethane
    6
    7
    8
    9 - classic reg seat oring (not AGD)
    10 - classic reg seat oring

    11 - 007
    12 - 006 - X/RT Reg. Valve Pin O-rings 90 duro urethane
    13 - 006 - classic/mini Teflon on/off O-Ring
    14 - 006
    15 - 116 - classic/mini Reg. Body O-ring 90 duro urethane
    16
    17
    18 - SIZE 012 - X/RT/classic/mini Reg. Piston O-rings 90 duro urethane
    19 - 010 - X/RT/classic/mini power tube O-Ring (X on off bottom) 90 duro urethane
    20 - 009 - RT Field Strip Banjo O-rings 90 duro urethane
    21 - Classic/mini bolt bumper
    22 - classic bolt bumper
    23 - Retro bolt bumper
    24 - Modified retro bolt bumper


    25 - AIR reg pin valve
    26 - AIR reg pin valve
    27 - RT on/off pin
    28 - AIR reg cone spring
    29 - mag safety spring
    30
    31
    32
    33 - moded on/off top
    34 - on/off top
    35 - on/off top
    36 - classic velocity lock nut
    37 -
    38 - RT safety
    39 - classic safety
    40
    41
    42 - AIR valve shim stack
    43 - AIR valve shim stack
    Last edited by Alan Smith; 01-19-2019 at 04:17 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    392
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Smith View Post
    6 - What’s the best way to protect ageing spare parts both orings and hard parts to prevent them going bad?

    The best thing to keep orings fresh is to keep them out of the light and to keep them sealed in something airtight. I have some of my orings in a military metal ammo can in my basement...cool, dark, airtight. The orings I take with me in my gear to games are kept in contact lens cases. They can be segregated and organized and kept in something that keeps them away from light and open air.


    As far as metal parts, keep them in something airtight and coated in light oil or even a light grease. Preventing corrosion is your goal here.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    I'll try to add a couple in a hurry:

    Answers consolidated here:

    1 -
    2 - 018 - RT/classic/mini barrel O-Ring 90 duro urethane
    3 - 018
    4 - 015
    5 - 015 - asa tank O-Ring 90 duro urethane
    6
    7
    8
    9 - classic reg seat oring (not AGD)
    10 - classic reg seat oring
    11 - 007
    12 - 006 - X/RT Reg. Valve Pin O-rings 90 duro urethane
    13 - 006 - classic/mini Teflon on/off O-Ring
    14 - 006
    15 - 116 - classic/mini Reg. Body O-ring 90 duro urethane
    16
    17
    18 - SIZE 012 - X/RT/classic/mini Reg. Piston O-rings 90 duro urethane
    19 - 010 - X/RT/classic/mini power tube O-Ring (X on off bottom) 90 duro urethane
    20 - 009 - RT Field Strip Banjo O-rings 90 duro urethane
    21 - Classic/mini bolt bumper
    22 - classic bolt bumper
    23 - Retro bolt bumper
    24 - Modified retro bolt bumper

    25 - AIR reg pin valve
    26 - AIR reg pin valve
    27 - RT on/off pin
    28 - AIR reg cone spring
    29 - mag safety spring
    30
    31
    32
    33 - moded on/off top
    34 - on/off top
    35 - on/off top
    36 - classic velocity lock nut
    37 - classic velocity adjuster (used with velocity lock nut)
    - not sure on this now
    38 - RT safety
    39 - classic safety
    40
    41
    42 - AIR valve shim stack
    43 - AIR valve shim stack
    Last edited by athomas; 01-15-2019 at 08:37 AM. Reason: possible error on #37
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  5. #5
    Thanks you great answers so far anymore info. on the missing answers/questions please?

    Also I can see how the "classic velocity lock nut" 36 would fit on the back of the valve but the "velocity adjuster" 37 has different threads, how do they work together?
    Last edited by Alan Smith; 01-15-2019 at 03:54 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    waiting for winter
    Posts
    1,769
    the velocity lock nut is for field rental mags, you adjust the velocity where you want it then screw the "cap" on over the adjuster.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    The velocity adjuster was a tournament lock. You were required to have them on any mag used for a tournament. It prevented tampering with the velocity in the game. Without it you could manually adjust the velocity by degassing the mag and turning the adjuster with your fingers. By using this type of lock, the velocity was adjusted and then the cap was put on over the adjuster and tightened in place, preventing any further adjustments even with tools.

    Further looking at the pictures, I'm not so sure that #37 is part of the adjuster, even though it does look to be the correct shape. The threading looks too coarse. The outer threading should be the same as the fine threads on the inside of the valve at the back, which is the same fine threads seen on the cap.

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