Will adding a rt on/off and rt ule sear lighten the trigger pull resulting in the ability to make faster shots?
Thanks,
Doug
Will adding a rt on/off and rt ule sear lighten the trigger pull resulting in the ability to make faster shots?
Thanks,
Doug
Adding an rt on/ff will lighten the pull. It will make it easier to ride the trigger and not let the valve get a full recharge if you have horrible trigger control like myself.
Thank goodness for the rt valve, it helps with my sloppy trigger pull.
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Last edited by Gundam V; 05-16-2019 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Addition
I would argue that a Pneu-Mag setup will get as much high end performance that you can squeeze out of a classic valve, but it's not exactly cheap to get there.
I've built some wicked fast Pneu-Mag Classic valved setups but performance varies from one valve to another. You may get increased performance tinkering with a classic setup, guys did it for years, but the Pneu-Mag setup is a true game changer.
It has as much to do with your trigger pulling ability as anything. Most trigger assemblies on the market allow you reduce the area and timing between where a trigger is pulled to shoot and where it has to return for a reset. You can do that by reducing force and making it easier on your finger muscles. Lighter mechanisms allow faster movements.
The RT on-off reduces the trigger pull by using a smaller pin at the bottom where it encounters the chamber pressure, but the top is still large so the initial return force is the same as with a normal classic on-off. It doesn't have the same effect as the same assembly in a retro valve because the charge air is throttled through a regulator, so the impulse isn't quite as powerful and its not sustained as long. If you are good with your fingers and learn to do a full pull and release on each shot, the RT on-off will provide some benefits due to the reduced pull force. It is essentially cut in half. The downside is, if you ride the trigger, the RT assembly in the classic valve will exaggerate the short stroking issue because it is easier to hold the trigger from fully opening and to pull the trigger sooner before the chamber is fully charged.
The mechanisms can then be further broken down to leverage or mechanical assists. The leverage is a trade off. If you reduce the force, you increase the distance, because the work required is the same. Mechanical assists use outside forces to do some of the work. The pneu-mag is a great example of that.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Every pneu set up I have ever worked on way out shot the ability of the sear to reset. I much prefer the RT on/off in my classics
Thanks guys for all the info. I am looking into the RT on off and possibly in the future going to a pnue mag setup.
i have found i can shoot faster with a double trigger using my middle finger only.
All in all, you are limited by the valve. Not saying that a classic valve is not good or there aren't some tweaks you can do, but if you want to shoot like an electro, then get an electro.
Sure, you can throw $200, pimp it out with a double trigger, pneumatics and all, but for that you can get a used Axe that shoots almost like a mag, with much better efficiency and keep up with anything out there.
Or, you can get an Xvalve and have the ability to shoot as fast as you can pull the trigger. Do some DIY to the stock on/off and then you can get a very fast shooter.
Double the $200 and you can either go with an Emag or get an Xvalve add in the pneumatics and you have a near walkable "mechanical". The Emag allows you to have a 2nd gun, for those rainy days or walkons with rentals that you don't want to overshoot.
So again, what do you want and how much are you willing to spend?
I guess it’s just nostalgia. I had a mag about 15yrs ago and honestly it was the best marker I’ve owned.