** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[Jeremy Martin]

Perfect. Thank you gentlemen! It goes bang bang now.

[Motrin870]

I replaced my stock bolt system with the level 10 (I am using a classic valve). I used two of the small shims and the brass piece with one line and one dot. I am happy with the bolt's performance and sensitivity but I had to crank up the regulator about a full turn to get the FPS back up where it needed to be (is this normal?). There is a very slight air leak down the barrel. Do I remove a shim or two or do I need a different size brass item down the tube? (sorry, not sure what it's called right meow). The size that I am using right now has one line and one dot.

[Laku]

I replaced my stock bolt system with the level 10 (I am using a classic valve). I used two of the small shims and the brass piece with one line and one dot. I am happy with the bolt's performance and sensitivity but I had to crank up the regulator about a full turn to get the FPS back up where it needed to be (is this normal?). There is a very slight air leak down the barrel. Do I remove a shim or two or do I need a different size brass item down the tube? (sorry, not sure what it's called right meow). The size that I am using right now has one line and one dot.

You shouldn't need any shims. look at the quote two posts up. That tells you exactly what to do. Brass things are called carriers.

[Motrin870]

Much appreciated for pointed that out! I don't understand the logic behind the bolt spring though. Does this mean that it uses less air at the correct long spring setting vs the short spring setting as far has how high/low you have to adjust the regulator for the required FPS?

[Laku]

Much appreciated for pointed that out! I don't understand the logic behind the bolt spring though. Does this mean that it uses less air at the correct long spring setting vs the short spring setting as far has how high/low you have to adjust the regulator for the required FPS?

It means that the bolt moves the ball more gently to the barrel when using a stiffer spring. Depending on the spring stiffness the gun won't cycle below certain fps, lower the tension the lower the fps the gun will be able to cycle, but then the bolt won't be as gentle.

[athomas]

...I used two of the small shims and the brass piece with one line and one dot. I am happy with the bolt's performance and sensitivity but I had to crank up the regulator about a full turn to get the FPS back up where it needed to be (is this normal?). There is a very slight air leak down the barrel. Do I remove a shim or two or do I need a different size brass item down the tube?....

Take out the shims. You shouldn't ever need them. They might be causing your leak down the barrel. If it still leaks down the barrel after you remove the shims, go to the next smaller carrier size, which is the 1.0 (1 line, no dots). Remember to use the same white powertube oring when changing carrier sizes. Its the oring tension you are adjusting.

When you install the level 10, the smaller bolt stem hole in the powertube starts the bolt off slower and also slows down the air release compared to a level 7 bolt. This reduces the velocity at the same chamber pressure. You need to increase the velocity setting to get the velocity back up to the proper setting. A stiffer bolt spring requires an even higher velocity setting. Its normal. The smaller hole in the carrier oring compared to the original powertube inside diameter, combined with increased tension of stiffer bolt springs, reduces the impact force of the bolt on the ball, which is the whole idea behind the level 10.

[tucson.az.jbreen]

I have tried several combinations of carriers and shims.

the universal problem across all sets of carrier/no shims/some shims seems to be failure to reset after a chop or simulated chop.

right now i have the 1.5 with three shims, after trying 0, 1, 2, and 3.


stock x valve, ule body, lukes custom rail, intelliframe.

also the sear is an after market one that came stock on a minimag from glenn palmer. the pin connects to a higher point and seems shorter.

would a stock sear work better?

[athomas]

If its not resetting, then you are getting bolt stick. That is caused by a carrier that is too tight for the oring you are using. If the next carrier size causes leaking and you aren't using shims, then perhaps your sear is worn. A worn sear will cause the bolt to sit farther forward and could slightly expose the bolt stem vent hole. If this happens, you end up installing a carrier that is too tight in order to choke off the leak. Try a new stock sear. It will guarantee that the specs are correct.