Guys,
Post your LVL10 issues here we will try to help.
AGD
Guys,
Post your LVL10 issues here we will try to help.
AGD
Here's my issue with the my level 10. I can get the modification to work in my classic RT with only the short spring (it's the same as the stock one). Attempts at using the middle and long ones have failed as the reg piston would just start venting. The carrier I am using is the 1.5 one and the pt piston slides into the pt and inside the pt o-ring just right - not too loose not too tight (the #2 spacer leaked). The problem is the bolt still feels like it's going pretty fast [to chop a ball] with the short spring on it as I have felt it by shooting against my finger. Any helps on how I could get a softer setup?
AGD: You need to replace your regulator piston. It is venting at too low a pressure.
Last edited by AGD; 07-19-2002 at 09:47 PM.
Have you chronoed the marker? You need to turn up the "velocity" when installing level 10. You very well may be shooting down in the 250s.
Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
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I found that after putting two cases of paint through my new Level 10 kit that i developed a very slight leak in the power tube from time to time. I removed the o-ring carrier and installed the next smallest size and the leak stopped. Apparently the o-ring "broke in" and was a tiny bit too loose.
This isn't really a problem but more of a question.
I noticed that you said to put the cut end of the middle spring on the bolt and put the good end pointing out. Would there be any noticeable difference if you switched it around?
AIM "Cypres0099"
I put in the smallest carrier and it still leaks. the smallest one is no lines no dots right? Could something else be leaking? nothing was leaking before Level 10.
Please Help Me
AGD: Take out all your shims and try it again.
Last edited by AGD; 07-19-2002 at 09:48 PM.
How long will it take for the both longer springs to weaken (they are another material than the original short one)? When must the spring be renewed?
AGD: They should last years.
Manuel_FZR: Thanks Tom for the answer.
Last edited by Manuel_FZR; 07-22-2002 at 03:52 AM.
Greets Manuel
.:| levelx retro z-minimag |:..:| spearhead #192 |:.
.:| ---> looking for Flatline 4.5K or AA Apokalypse 2K <--- |:.
Do you have any shims in? If so, that them all out. Put them back one a time, checking for leaks. Make sure everything is oiled. Also, check the condition of the black oring on the outside of the carrier. If you put the carrier in without oil it is possible to damage the oring. Let us know.Originally posted by Minimag2002
I put in the smallest carrier and it still leaks. the smallest one is no lines no dots right? Could something else be leaking? nothing was leaking before Level 10.
My friends level 10 came in today, and in the process of putting it together, we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through... are we doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the kit?
Any help is appreciated,
CenterFire
EDIT - Sorry thats its in the wrong forum. Mods feel free to scoot it over to Tech. Hoping to get an answer faster in the more crowded forum is all
Last edited by CenterFire; 07-19-2002 at 06:15 PM.
Link to my problem post:
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...&postid=387573
BlackVCG is sending me some parts that hopefully should get me up and running. (Reg Piston Assembly)
Yes.Originally posted by Cypres0099
This isn't really a problem but more of a question.
I noticed that you said to put the cut end of the middle spring on the bolt and put the good end pointing out. Would there be any noticeable difference if you switched it around?
I tried doing that when I was first trying to set mine up. At first I thought that I was having trouble putting my valve assy. in, but when I investigated, it turned out that the spring had actually threaded past where it is supposed to stop, and into the breach. This would definitely not help in preventing ball chops. By placing the cut end against the bolt, you give it a good surface to seat against where it won't thread through.
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It doesn't/shouldn't go in that far. Are you using the new power tube tip that came with the level 10 kit? How far does the power piston extend past the end of the bolt (it should only be about a 1/2 inch or so)?Originally posted by CenterFire
we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through...
Here is a link to a cut away view of the new bolt (so you can see if yours is the same):
https://www.automags.org/forums/attac...&postid=362082
When I fully assemble the valve and etc, other than the bolt and spring, everything seems normal. And yes I'm using the new powertube tip. When I try and slide the bolt onto the assembly, it doesnt slide down the power tube. It stops a little less than an inch from where the bumper normally is.
Edit - And after testing, we came to the conclusion that the wider part of the power piston is too wide to fit through the power tube tip...
[QUOTE]Originally posted by CenterFire
[B]My friends level 10 came in today, and in the process of putting it together, we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through... are we doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the kit?
Any help is appreciated,
CenterFire
AGD: This is very strange, see if it will go over the old power tube tip. If it will see if the new pt tip goes into the original bolt.
Last edited by AGD; 07-19-2002 at 09:50 PM.
I posted you question in the official problems thread. Here is a link to the thread:
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...019#post389019
Ok thanks... anyone with any help, feel free to reply to the quote in the official problems thread or here if you're lazy
As clarification, when I fully assemble the valve and etc, other than the bolt and spring, everything seems normal. When I try and slide the bolt onto the assembly, it doesnt slide down the power tube. It stops a little less than an inch from where the bumper normally is. And after testing, we came to the conclusion that the wider part of the power piston is too wide to fit through the power tube tip...
Two thing I thought I'd throw in as just a double check advice. First, is the carrier you are using too small for the bolt to fit through in which case switch to a looser one (more lines). Second, is your power tube tip tightened all the way down, so that there is no gap between it and the power tube itself.Originally Posted by CenterFire
I just installed my lvl 10, as far as i can tell everything is working fine now that i have tuned everything. However, I tuned it with CO2 and I just got Compressed Air, will I need to change settings or will I be able to improve anything as far as the lvl10 setup goes, cuz right now I am having to use the small spring that came with the kit. Also, i got a small compressed air (48cu/3000psi) and it has a set pressure(i.e. no regulator) will that make me shoot hot even with the lvl 10 in or does it matter.
I have never had any problems installing a lvl x in a mechanical mag. Well now I have a Micro e-mag and just got my new x-valve. after trying to install that and finding that it will not shoot in anything other than manual mode I was a little distressed. Jon from AGD told me to use the stock e-mag on/off pin and that should help.
Yes and No
I can still get it to fire in "M" mode but I can only manage every second or third shot in "E" mode. I have run the gambit with different set up's.
I am at a loss, currently I am 2.5 carrier 2 shims and input of around 900
No leaks front or rear.
shoots in "M" mode great, but "E" mode is every other shot or so...
i am still haveing problems with my level x.whats the addresss for agd i am gonna send it in to them c if they can fix it .i cant use my cd cuz it is not woring in my computer or ps2.please reply fast with i need some help.
oh just thought i let you know that i am his friend he was refering to. you can e-mail me at Kmart_kicker@swirve.com
Are you using SBII or the regular one?
You have to use SBII.
OK i have taken my mag down to the aother mag guys at the field today and the bolt fits on there lvl ten. they said that my powertube tip was machined wrong.
No it does not go on the old powertube tip when the origanl powertube is assembled, but yes the new powertub tip goes on the original bolt.
Oh yeah i changed my fourm name hope ya dont mind
AGD: call us for a replacement bolt.
Last edited by AGD; 07-21-2002 at 01:27 AM.
I just installed my LVL 10 and tryed sticking a ball half way in the breach to see the anti chop but instead it choped and i got sqirted in the face with orange p8nt so i rolled up a $5 bill and stuck it in and it hit the bill and crumpled it all to hell.
whats wrong?
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FeedBack
What sixe spring do you have in it? you should put the largest one in if you have the cut one in. If you have the small stock one you should throw it out. put the cut one then if thats no good but the longest one.
Help me solve my problem with my lvl 10!!!!!!!!!
https://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1489668#post1489668
more shims and bigger spring.Originally Posted by AnArchist_1944
Pete
man my lx is pissing me off i just got it installed in my local shop and when i was playing my bolt started sticking not letting my trigger [ull out and co2 was comeing out of the barrel i put a bigger carrier in and i thought it worked but after bout 12 shots bolt stuck and co2 cam out the barrel again i seriously need some help
alright i have a problem. i think its my lvl 10 cuz it is leaking. i just got it from a trade and its an emag. its leaking out of the breach and i took out the first part from the back. then i looked at the next part and that part was srtipped (not sure what its called, but is bronze). any ideas how to get it out? thanks. Noob to emags.
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feedback
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=450095
That sounds to me like you might need to take out one shim from your level 10. Also make sure you drop a couple of drops of oil onto the post at the back of the bolt before you play. That will help things go smoothly. I would also recommend using top-end oil like KC Troublefree. I switched over to KC recently and it smoothed out my on/off sticking problem. I would go back to first carrier you were using, too, by the way. And you might call your shop and yell at them some.Originally Posted by matwizard08
hmmm...trigger sticking.... That sounds like your on/off might be sticking, too. Make sure you drop a little oil into your on/off as well. Not too much, just a drop or two.