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Thread: ALL about the WARP-FEED

  1. #121
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Austin, Texas
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    477
    im having a lot of trouble with chopping with my warp. i know i know level 10, but i chop like every other ball. i just don't understand. i just got a new barrel and have plastic nubbins in it. i am kinda frustrated right now. maybe ill have to get rid of my warp, revy, and pf-hr body and trade them for a no rise and a halo. i am starting to think this is the answer. i really love the warp but can't get it to work right!! please save me.
    -sebastian

  2. #122
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    nevermind...man im an idiot...somehow both of the plastic nubbins i was using snapped now i feel like a real poopy head. well i love warp again.
    -sebastian

  3. #123
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    how'd they snap? did you have both barrel o'rings on? Do you have extra nubbins?

  4. #124
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    Jan 2002
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    pittsburgh, PA
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    315

    few quick questions

    I'm thinking about getting a warp for my lx-intelli-retromag.

    I have a pf, hl body, and I'm a righty. Is there a reliable way to feed this setup without putting the 90* adapter on the top of the p/f. Would it be feasible to put the 90* adapter directly into the warp's "out" hole, and run the hose to the bottom of the p/f?

    Also, are you familiar with butter's mod in which the rev batteries, sensor, and board are removed and "intellilinked" into the rev? If so, is a 12v modded warp necessary? Would a 9 volt warp essentially make the rev 9 volt also (I'm assuming yes).

    Finally, is there a reliable feeding method to avoud cutting a hole in the hopper (ie- idea i mentioned above to run hose up other side).

    Thanks so much
    John

  5. #125
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    you could run the 90* from the bottom of the pf around to your warp.

    The 9v warp feeds faster than any revy.

    just make sure your hose is not being pinched and you'll be fine.

  6. #126
    I just got a used warp and everything is working, but the 9 volt battery hookup wires to the board are disconnected, im guessing they were torn off or something, where do I re solder them? im worried about frying the board.
    'people should not be allowed to own paintguns which are smarter than they are'

    -Sparq

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Long Island NY
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    Originally posted by TraXeR
    I just got a used warp and everything is working, but the 9 volt battery hookup wires to the board are disconnected, im guessing they were torn off or something, where do I re solder them? im worried about frying the board.
    yeah, i did the same thing what i found to work best for me, since i dont like to have to re solder things that dont need it, i wanted to keep the motor connected to the board, so i took apart the whole thing, then pulled the board out just enough so that i could slip the 2 battery wires around the side of the board. doing it this way gives you very easy access to the board to solder since your doing the soldering on the same side the potentiometer is on. worked for me, not most professional way to do it, but it didnt fry the board (like it might have if i tried to get the solder out of the holes to reinsert a wire). while your in there soldering, i suggest that you buy some wire and make everything a little longer so this cant happen again. also make sure you dont lose the springs under the board because i believe they are needed if you use the vibration senser to run the gun.
    Good Buyers: rhetor22

    "AHHH Yet another "long" time cocker user wakes up, and comes to his senses. What can I say, to the intelligent side of paintball." - Creative Mayhem
    E-Mag with lx for sale!!!!! HERE!!

  8. #128
    um, i know how to solder it on, but i dont know **WHERE** on the board each wire goes to, thats what i needed help with.

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    High Desert, California
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    + (red) to VCC
    - (black) to ground

    Both are clearly marked on the Warp board if you unscrew the 3 screws on the board cover. VCC is the third one down, Gnd is the 4th (last).

    Charles

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    iowa
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    1

    dumb question

    so does the capacitor go in series or in parrallel with the out put of the 12 volt reg?

  11. #131
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    Feb 2002
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    In series. In parallel, both batteries are still running 9v.

    to AO!

  12. #132
    k thnx guys, my warpds working great now, i just gotta set it so its more sensitive and spins longer, ive read some of the instructions, but i still dont want to screw with it until im 100% sure, any help? can you take some pics of the board and circle what i need to change on it and tell me how and what it will do thnx. right now it spins for less than 1/2 a ball, i want it to spin the distance of 3 balls each time and i want it to be just under UBER sensitive so i can tap thwe side with my hand when reloading balls cause the white button is hard tp find when not looking. thnx. plz send this help to my email game_freak_oblivion@hotmail.com

  13. #133
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    Sep 2002
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    High Desert, California
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    It's not really that hard, TraXeR, the directions are spot on. I'd recommend something a little less sensitive, or using the white button to feed (quieter on the field if bumped, less prone to run accidentally if jarred, longer motor life), but it's your Warp.

    Since you want increased sensitivity and a decent run time, work on the sensitivity first. Put the battery in the Warp, take off the board cover and look for the potentiometer. Should look like a blue pencil eraser with a white cap on it. Gently turn that clockwise until it stops. That is the most sensitive setting. In actuality, the Warp should be spinning. Slowly turn it CCW until it stops. Bump the side of the Warp at approx. the strength that you think you'll bump it on the field. Turn the cap CCW, and repeat. Bump and turn. Bump and turn. Eventually, you'll bump and the Warp won't run. Turn the pot a smidgen clockwise and bump. You should be dialed in at that point.

    For the amount of feed time, or dwell, there is a group of jumpers on the left side, just below and to the right of where you soldered the battery wires back on. If you are feeding half a ball when the Warp runs, it sounds like you have 1 jumper in place. The more jumpers you add, the longer the Warp runs. It doesn't matter in what sequence you add jumpers, just add them vertically. Horizontally should shut the dwell down. If you don't have spare jumpers, you can pick them up at Radio Shack or any Mom & Pop computer shop. Hit the white button and add a jumper. Repeat until it spins the desired time.

    Put the cover back on, gas the marker up and fill your hopper. Go burn a couple of balls and test it out. Make sure everything is set the way you want it and don't be afraid to tinker with the settings more. Easy to remember, more jumpers, more time. More to the right (potentiometer), more sensitive.

    Hope this helps,
    Charles

  14. #134
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    Mar 2002
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    Kansas
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    on the 12v mod is the reg suppose to get hot?

  15. #135
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    FURF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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    How do you hook this thing up?

    I have allt he parts, and I see the pictures, maybe I am missing something....

    Once you have the wiring all in place, how do you attach it to the Warp itself? Is there any point in leaving the original 9 volt adapter on the gun? ( mine is broken off is why I ask.

    I did all the wiring with the on/off and LED mod, I just dont know how to attach it to my gun now Sorry computer technician, but horrible with electronics


    Styg
    Sometimes It's Good to be EVIL

  16. #136
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    Sep 2002
    Location
    tx
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    GAH!

    My warp jus stopped workin last week and ive been tryin to fix it ever since! i really wanna avoid the 3 hour round trip to the proshop AGAIN to get yet another piec of equipment fixed... as im typing this (or inbetween typing i guess) im workin on it. all wires seem to be connected,and i am only running 9 volts. The funny thing is this thing just stopped workin outta no where. I had just got back from the shop where i was askin bout the sensitivity (since i had just bought the warp) and it was working. then it just stopped. i tried my microswitch, i tried the sensitiivty but nothing works. It just stopped. No smoking, no sounds, nothing. Please HELP!! i just bought a z-grip so im broke right now (i ahve 14 dollars to my name) and i really cant afford a new warp... Help me Havoc!! (by the way... can i call u the H.O. of A.O. ? :P)
    oogaboogawigywee!ITsa me! BLONDIE!
    Please resize your sig image - thanks.

    my feedback:
    http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73289

  17. #137
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    rehme warm is ok, hot is not.

    StygShore I cant really tell you from just reading your post, it depends how it's built, some people just make drop in kits that connect to the current battery connector, others tap into the board.

    srrdude sounds like you just have your jumpers mixed up, go over the manuel again and see if you could find a error. If your convinced that something is really wrong beyond settings, take it to someone who would know or mail it to me since We're both in Tx, it shouldnt take long.

    People please dont do any mods to your warp if you dont know what you are doing. It's not hard to mess something up and end up with a broken or messed up warp. I am NOT responsible for any errors you make. The orginal purpose of this thread was to inform people without warps that were seeking information or to help people who were having trouble with thier warps, I linked the 12v mod in for the people who know what they are doing but needed somewhere to start from. If you want a mod done to it, send it to me or someone who knows what they are doing. If you DO really know what you are doing but just need a little advice or have a question, please dont post it which encourages more people to have "non-stock" warps, PM me and ask me, I'll do my best to help you out. Stock warps work AWESOME and dont need anything done to them to work right.
    Last edited by Havoc_online; 01-18-2003 at 05:14 PM.

  18. #138
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    Sep 2002
    Location
    tx
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    i think the jumpers are correct..

    i didnt mess with anything without referrring to the manual first. Where should the jumpers b? i have the one on the bottom to controll activation.. cuz i havent installed a microswitch in my warp yet (the even with the microswitch it wont work) and i set the other jumpers up (the left set) like the manual shows: one vertical on the far left, and one horizontal across the top 2. kinda like this [:][ ][']['] if that makes any sense... ive tried almost all jumper possibilities but maybe im doin something wrong. id hate to send it off if its something small like that... even if u are just 3 hours away.

  19. #139
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    Hrmm.. what was wrong with the warp last time when you had to get it fixed? You say that the wries are in good shape and batteries are good, have you checked the wires going to the motor? look very closely at the board and see if any of the pins burned out on any of the componets.

    *added, your jumpers sound fine so it's most likely something else.

  20. #140
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    tx
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    no my gun was gettin fixed.. the guy there just switched a jumper from the intellie to the sensor.. and it worked for a while but then on the way home it stopped. And could u say wat u just again in english-for-dumbies?

  21. #141
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    check the wires going to the motor and look closely at your board. look CLOSELY to see if any of the pins that connect the componets to the board have burned out.

  22. #142
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    what are the pins... which components.. and how will i know if theyre burnt out?

    just a side note.. my motor works fine.. i put a nine volt againts the motor and it spun...

  23. #143
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    Sep 2002
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    tx
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    i have identified the problem.

    using a very long process of elimination i can conclude that the problem lies in the switch. thats right, the on off switch.i know this, bcuz after re-routing the wire from the battery directly to the board rather than goin thro the switch, i activated my warp. prob just bad wiring in the switch. ill keep ya updated.

  24. #144
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    are these connecting pins in good shape on this and everything else on the board.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #145
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    LoL, for future reference, could you state that you have had aftermarket mods(on/off) done to the warp

  26. #146
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    tx
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    i didnt tho.

  27. #147
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    next thing... now ive got it spinning... how do i get the sensor to work...

  28. #148
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    tx
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    oh boy.. here we go again...

    that component dohickey u showed me is really really hot. help.../

  29. #149
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    the blue dial adjusts the sensor. as for the board being hot - make sure the wiring is done properly.

    (plz try and use your sig once per page, you've used your 8 times this page- not trying to be a bug, just trying to save space)

  30. #150
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    Sep 2002
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    tx
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    its not the board itself thats hot its just that one upper left component that gets hot.

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