Hyperframe FAQ

[nevtangle]

NEW PROBLEM:
I got a blade trigger from Luke. Installed it, turned on the frame and fired 2 shots. Every pull after that wouldn't fire even though the switch was clicking. The board was displaying the 20 BPS shot mode but didn't register FIRE when the trigger was pulled. I tried to turn it off and back on, but it wouldn't turn off. I disconnected the battery and waited for it to power down., reconnected the battery and tried to turn it back on. Nothing. I can't get it to turn on now. I even tried a new battery. Is the board fried? It worked great this past weekend. I shot 1 1/2 cases at the field and everything was great. Put the new trigger on it and now this.

[hitech]

That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.

If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...

Good luck.

[nevtangle]

That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.

If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...

Good luck.

Thanks once again hitech. It does have trigger stops so that sounds like the problem. I'll check to make sure I have a gap between the switch and the trigger stop. Other than that maybe a new switch?

[hitech]

Thanks once again hitech. It does have trigger stops so that sounds like the problem. I'll check to make sure I have a gap between the switch and the trigger stop. Other than that maybe a new switch?

BTW, you don't need a gap to make it work. You just need one to be SURE the switch is not making contact. Once you get it to power on you could adjust the stop to just a little before it fires.

If you have an ohm meter you could unplug the switch from the board and test it if if appears to be bad.

[nevtangle]

BTW, you don't need a gap to make it work. You just need one to be SURE the switch is not making contact. Once you get it to power on you could adjust the stop to just a little before it fires.

If you have an ohm meter you could unplug the switch from the board and test it if if appears to be bad.

I'm thinking its a bad switch because even though there is no gap the switch isn't engaged. I'll have to test it I guess.

Thanks
-N

[nevtangle]

That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.

If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...

Good luck.

It doesn't seem to be the switch. I adjusted the stops so there was a gap - board won't turn on.
Took the switch out and left connected to the board - board won't turn on.
Took the switch apart to make sure the contact points weren't sticking. Checked the solder points for a short. The switch seems to be ok.

So what does this mean? The switch is definately not engaged when I try to turn the board on. It is still refusing to power up. I was really hoping it would be as simple as you said.
Could it have died from natural causes? I just don't know what could have fried this board. No moisture got in it and it went from working to not firing to not turning off, and now won't turn on.

[nevtangle]

I got it working!!! Disconnected the battery for over 15 min to reset the board and its working again. Hugh sigh of relief... thought my board was dead.

[hitech]

Glad to hear you got it to work. Maybe your experience will help others. I'll add it to the FAQ at the top if you don't mind.

[nevtangle]

Glad to hear you got it to work. Maybe your experience will help others. I'll add it to the FAQ at the top if you don't mind.

Don't mind at all. This Hyperframe FAQ is great. Its helped me out a lot and I'm sure other will be able to benefit from it.

[mobsterboy]

what aftermarket boards are compatible and small enough for the hyperframe?
I know that morlocks are, but size difference btw the morlock/minimorlock? Ive heard ppl used a predator nme board...any input would be appreciated