All LVL 10 Info Here

[AGD]

Here they are, more added as released. This is just so we don't loose the first ones.

Mags can't do THAT??!! (900k real player)
AVI (8 meg)
DiviX (1.5 meg)
MPG (4 meg)

What Chops? (800k real player)
AVI (6 meg)
MPG (4.5 meg)
DiviX (1.8 meg)

Within the Range 500k
AVI 4 meg
MPG (3.5 meg)
DiviX (1.3 meg)

The Buck Stops Here (real video 1 meg)
AVI 10 meg
MPEG 2 meg
2mb DivX 5.0.2 file

How it works, GIF animation

Movie on How to Install LVL 10 (6.91MB -MPEG)
Movie on How to Install LVL 10 (14.6MB -DIVX)


Put your marker where your mouth is! Real player 700k
AVI 4 meg

[AGD]

All LVL 10 Info Here

I am condensing all the LVL10 info to one thread to clean up the stickies.

AGD

[AGD]

AO,

Here is a simplistic animation of how the Level 10 mod works. I have eliminated the mainspring for simplicity. Study this GIF and then look at the diagrams below. It's late so I will answer more questions tommorow.

AGD

[AGD]

In these images you see the slow speed, low bolt pressure phase of the stroke. It is very slow about 4-6 FPS. This slow speed and low pressure makes sure it pinches and doesn't chop the balls. There is a additional advantage that the slow speed does not crack or bobble the ball stack waiting to go in.

[AGD]

After we get past the ball stack we can then go full power on the throttle to load, fire and retract the bolt. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT to maintain the firing rate of the gun. If the bolt continued to travel at the same speed it would severly limit the firing rate. The animation does not properly show the speed increase.

[AGD]

Magsters,

Here is a cutaway showing how we lightened the new Superbolt. Note that the wall is much thinner now but still has great strength because it's stainless. To see how much we cut away look at the rear end where it gets thicker back to original size. We also added in all the tricks with the radiused edges etc.

This all stainless, never wear out version only weighs 8% more than the original SB. It weighs in at 1.16 oz and is in contention for the lightest reciprocating bolt in a paintball gun. That also means no kick!!

AGD

[AGD]

[AGD]

[AGD]

I fixed the color of the backup washer at your request.

AGD

[cphilip]

As you know or should know by now there is a higher retained marker pressure when this mod is installed. So degassing is a issue you need to consider. As if you didn't already. But these new pressures can be a magnitude of 2 to 3 times higher. As much as 400 psi still left when the marker quits firing. There is nothing wrong with this. Its a side effect of the Level 10 mod and is easy to live with. You screw on tank guys will not have to worry about this. But the ones with fixed lines will want to look into a degas method.


I am gonna insert Toms comments on the higher retained pressure here so I can unstick the thread on this.

Here is the link to the original thread itself:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41874

Here are Toms comments on that:

LVL 10 Users,

I have read all the posts for residual pressure and the results make sense.

The bolt acts like a cork holding back pressure in a bottle. When you fire the marker the air pressure pushes out the "cork" BUT the mainspring is now holding the cork in with more force than before. This results in more residual pressure in the system.

In other words the fact that the LVL10 mod causes your gun to stop shooting abruptly at the end of the tank and the gun holds more residual pressure is the result of the same thing. This is all caused by the stronger mainspring.

My personal opinion is that removing a macro line from a fitting is a poor choice to degass a gun. I would recomend everyone use some type of degassing fitting to loose all the pressure before dissasembly. Most people with screw in tanks will not have a problem. The others will just have to get a degassing fitting because this effect is a normal part of the LVL 10 operation.

We didn't see it here because we use degassers on our lines. Overall I see this as the only hiccup so far in the LVL 10 testing.

I should warn everyone that the Retro Valve and RT Valve will hold residual pressure even with the air source removed. You should NEVER remove your valve and mainbody together and then pull out the valve. This can cause the on/off assembly to shoot out at high speed. By removing the valve while the mainbody is still attached to the rail the system will degass properly. This is the best reason to NOT ADJUST YOUR TRIGGER ROD!!

Besides this I don't have any other solutions to the residual pressure problem. You just can't shoot it down to nothing with this new setup.

AGD

[cphilip]

On the issue of shims being bent and destroyed upon improper install, Eric AGD started a thread with some tips on how to prevent that...

Shim Damage Prevention technics thread:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42181

And for you sticker lovers...

Level 10 sticker post thread here:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=40040

compilation of the carriers that seem to work most going on...

Level 10 "Carriers that worked" thread here:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42007

Some interesting further development stuff here started by Rudy. This early beta test reactions and stuff. Lets continue that here.

Lvl 10 suggestions/discussions thread here:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42317

Your Superbolt II seems to wide and is getting stuck? See what Tom says about that and discuss it here:

My Super Bolt II is not fitting right threads:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42426

Miscue's "how to install Lvl 10" Video:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44178