pneumag with a classic valve?

[Sanchito]

Sorry if its been over before, i searched on google and here, and couldnt find any info on it.

Heres the deal, i want to build a pneumag, but i cant afford an X-valve. NO way, no how. i can afford to get the parts of the pneumag kit, but not the kit and the x-valve. (i just dont play often enough to justify that heavy of a pricetag. but i have always wanted to have a pneumag)

I have a mag with a 68 classic valve and LVLx. if i get a pneumag suitable frame (will an empty intelliframe work btw?), will there be any problems with using the classic valve? (im running unregged HPA, if that matters.)

thanks!

[michbich]

Most if the pneuframes are intellies, so i don't see a problem using one.

As for a classic valve and pneu, i would use an ULT with the valve.

I'm unfamiliar with the term "unregged HPA", could you explain it by any chance?

[snoopay700]

Most if the pneuframes are intellies, so i don't see a problem using one.

As for a classic valve and pneu, i would use an ULT with the valve.

I'm unfamiliar with the term "unregged HPA", could you explain it by any chance?

I think he means he has no regulator except for the valve, so he'll need an LPR for a pneumag.

[Sanchito]

yeah, i mean im not using any regulator besides the valve.

i have a wgp tickler already for the setup.

all i need is the msv-2 and the ram, unless yeu guys think i should use a ULT kit. will a ult go right on a classic valve, or will it need modding to fit?

[snoopay700]

yeah, i mean im not using any regulator besides the valve.

i have a wgp tickler already for the setup.

all i need is the msv-2 and the ram, unless yeu guys think i should use a ULT kit. will a ult go right on a classic valve, or will it need modding to fit?

It'll fit right on, and you won't really need one, it'll make the trigger pull a tad lighter due to a lower pressure needed to operate. Check out the dealer's forum, cyberave will hook you up with the parts.

[pump]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV9KfjuO5Vk&feature=user

[Stayhuge]

I thought that there were issues with putting a ULT in a Classic valve, Like it needs milling, but I could be wrong. I am pretty certain that you need to modify an RT Pro valve, so I just assumed that you need to modify a classic valve too.

It is suggested to have the ULT with the Pneumag, being that this will allow you to use a lower pressure to activate the sear, resulting in more efficiency and less wear and tear on the pneumatics. One thing that you should try to do, whether ULT or not, is to place the ram as far down the sear arm so less force is required.(Basically, you get better leverage on the sear, requiring less force.)

[Stayhuge]

BTW, I have made a few Pneumags myself, so feel free to pm me with any questions.

[snoopay700]

I thought that there were issues with putting a ULT in a Classic valve, Like it needs milling, but I could be wrong. I am pretty certain that you need to modify an RT Pro valve, so I just assumed that you need to modify a classic valve too.

It is suggested to have the ULT with the Pneumag, being that this will allow you to use a lower pressure to activate the sear, resulting in more efficiency and less wear and tear on the pneumatics. One thing that you should try to do, whether ULT or not, is to place the ram as far down the sear arm so less force is required.(Basically, you get better leverage on the sear, requiring less force.)

Nope, the classic valve has 2 o-rings at the bottom like the x so it can use it i'm pretty sure.

[michbich]

Some RT valves need milling to accept the ULT, some don't. But every classic valve will work with ULT.

[Sanchito]

thanks for all the help, i was just worried that the classic valve wouldnt have a fast enough recharge rate to make a pneumag out of.

i will look into a ULT kit and install it if i can. i can understand where it would help with the pull of the sear and the working of the pneumatics.

also thanks for the tip about the ram placement further down the sear arm. will do.

[Stayhuge]

Nope, the classic valve has 2 o-rings at the bottom like the x so it can use it i'm pretty sure.

Oh, cool. I never knew that.

[pump]

in the vid we used the RT Booyah & Hyperframe on offs all work well


i cant wait to make my own

[Spider-TW]

The ULT doesn't return well in the classic valve since there is no noticeable RT effect. Return after firing is very important for a classic.

The RT on/off works well in classics in general and in pneu set-ups as well. If you use cyberave's geometry (full msv-2 arm and triggerrod at the top of the trigger, you will probably still want his magnet mod with a classic valve.

The classic valve doesn't recharge as fast as the x, so as a pneumag they are more sensitive to the 'good stroke'. They take a little practice. Handing my classic pneu to some ego shooters, it sounds pretty sad, but when they hand it back I can keep a clean 10 bps on it (I don't shoot much faster than that with my timmy in semi )

Mine is on an intelliframe. I did have some shootdown which was more like a random droop as my fingers would start galloping together. I changed up the on/off and got rid it (or practiced enough by then). I have a sear stop, a .723 on/off pin and an emag quad oring. There are some posts in the tech section by 'the electrician', describing how to get the highest rate of fire out of a classic (he was using an electronic frame set up to 20 bps).

Just know that your fingers don't come with guaranteed recharge time and you will see mid-air ball collisions and droops more with a classic than an x-valve and that practice helps. The other end of it is, after you're done, you can still go back and add an x-valve if you want.