Main Body differances

[RobAGD]

OK

The mainbodies are a bit different between the following guns.

Automag, Minimag

RT

Emag, RT Pro

The difference between the bodies on the RT-Pro/Emag and the Automag and MiniMag are the pims that are on the bottom of the body.

The Automag and Minimag use a squarish pim where as the RT/RT Pro and Emag all use round pims.



RT mainbody Automag mainbody and Emag Mainbody

Now, while it's not a factory backed suggestion you COULD use an RT Pro or Emag body on an Automag/MiniMag. While you CAN'T use the Automag body on an RT Pro or Emag.

Meanwhile the Automag, MiniMag, Smartmag, MicroMag, ReTro valve, RT Pro, Emag valves are all "BASICALLY" interchangable.

-Robert

[ShinyGuy]

You say '"BASICLY' interchangable" like they aren't entirely. What issues should we be aware of when playing musical valves?

[BlackVCG]

Because each gun was tuned for the valve that's in it. Taking a classic valve and throwing it into an E-Mag won't work so well because of the bolt stick issue when not using the quad o-ring. Physically all of those valves can be interchanged, but in some cases the tolerance issue might cause such problems as leaks, shootdown, bolt stick, etc.

[Tunaman]

Hole spacing

Rob...Is the hole spacing all the same? From the center of the on-off pin hole to the center of the screw hole? I haven't had the pleasure of checking out the Emag bodies yet.

[BlackVCG]

Yep, it's the same.

[DeVioSiTY]

So according to this info I can get a new Minimag Powerfeed Body as a replacement to my used Automag Classic I bought, right? God, this marker keeps getting better and better! AI have shot tons of cases of paint through this thing and still haven't had a single ball break!

[143Paul]

Cutting the Feedtube

DON'T DO IT - sorry I get excited some times.

Here is why:

The AutoMag is a blow forward design. As the bolt is blown forward some of that air blows up through the feed tube. You need the weight of the balls to hold the 1st ball in place. Under slow rates of fire No problem. But when you get on the trigger - you can chop balls. This is why the power feed is important on the AutoMag.

Good luck

[MagNumPI]

I have always wondered why do you guys always make the Automag stock body in matte grey? Why not anodized black.. would look much better ... I guess when your marker works this good who cares what it looks like.

[manike]

The stock body is grey because it is stainless steel. Stainless steel can not be annodised. It can be powder blasted to give it that grey look, polished to look like chrome (the shiney bodies) or coated/painted to look like just about anything.

manike

[Army]

143Paul, Actually, the classic feed was made long to dissuade that one person who would stick their finger into it and pull the trigger. Needless to say, that is not a smart thing to do!

I too, cut down my power-feed to lower the profile. Be ultra slow and careful with a hacksaw to insure the cut is straight across. Lightly file and finish with sand-paper to smooth, polish and chamfer (round off) the new edge.

Before you cut, measure how much you want to take off. An old rule of thumb is to "measure twice, cut once". If you cut it too low for the elbow to be able to clamp on, then your gun is useless.

[Grey_Goose]

so are RT bodies interchangeable w/ RT Pro's & E-Mags?

[jeffremiller]

No ... the original RT bodies are longer than any other bodies since the RT valve actually slides inside the body tube. YOu could theoretically cut off the back of the body since the distance between the on/off hole and the PEM are the same.

Take this for an example.... It's blurry but the only picture I took.

[Dragoon]

Rob,
ShinyGuy asked, but you didn't answer about the 'basically' interchangeable part.

I've recently tried to change the bodies but have run into a bit of a problem (I'm switching up bodies because I have enough extra parts to make a new gun if I use an emag body on a regular mag rail).

The first time I tried it all was well. My retro mag with emag body worked, although it was not very reactive. However after removing the body to clean and tighten a loose foregrip, I can't get the combination e-mag/mag to fire. I've also noticed that there is a small gap between the body and the rail at the front of the marker. The screws are as tight as they can go so that's not the problem. I was thinking of filing off just a small amount from the pim under the emag body to eliminate this problem. Will this help or am I just on my way to ruining a really nice body.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Douglas.

[jeffremiller]

Not to butt into the conversation...since you asked Rob directly. But I've had a lot of time to look at these things and you "could grind down the round pem and make it work or remove it and put a older style pem on it if you can silver solder.

Either way, you're removing metal which is there for a reason so the risk of mesing up is present but you've got the idea. If it's worth the risk to you to grind the pem down a few thousandths... just be careful.

J_

[Dragoon]

hmmm... ya that's what I'm thinking. But my worry is that I'll file it down so that the gap dissapears only to discover that the setup is to tempermental to use. I just don't want to take the risk without knowing what else might cause problems.

Are there any other compatability issues that anyone knows about?

Douglas.