1. An air leak out of the velocity adjuster when chrono'ing below 300fps.
You may have a bad reg. piston. A way around it that may be a quick fix for you is to use the short spring and a unported barrel. This may not work depending on the condition of your piston.
2. A massive air leak down the barrel as soon as you gas up.
If you are sure the kit is installed properly there are two things you can check. One is that you bolt spring is extended past the tip of the bolt. The other is that your bolt stem may have broken its weld with the bolt(this sometimes happens with 1st gen. level 10 bolts). If it broke its weld, it may have pulled a few thousands off which will cause this massive leak. Bust out the calibers and it should measure between 2.008"-2.012"
3. The level 10 kicks in all the time but I know I'm not outshooting my loader.
If you are using an Xmag or a mag with a ULE body on it, there's a good chance that your level 10 is adjusted to be too soft. That or your ball detent is in too far. One way to check that it's not the detent is to use the short spring and shoot your marker as fast as you can. If the problem persists, put some teflon tape around the threading of your ball detent and dont thread it as far in as it was. If using the short spring made the problem go away but you still want to use the middle spring, try cutting 1/4 of a coil off the spring. This will be softer than the short spring but slightly harder than before so your detent wont freak out the level 10.(If you have this problem, you will only notice it when shooting with paint, not when dry-firing.)
4. The Valve doesnt fit in the body once I install the level ten, or no matter what I do the bolt wont cycle properly.
Take the valve out, pull off the bolt, and remove the spring. Take the bolt and see if it fits inside the body(thru the body washer passing the breech). If it doesn't fit or there's resistance, then the body may have a burr that needs to be filed smooth till the bolt can slide thru the breech ok.
5. I have a new X-valve that isn't cycling properly.
At the factory, they compensate for the carrier o'ring break-in. This means they send the valve out with a carrier size that's one size small so once the o'ring breaks in, you dont have to mess with anything. The problem is sometimes the bolt/o'ring fit is so tight, the marker doesn't always cycle properly. Try going up a size in carriers and see if it does the job. (Also remember that you've just bought a new valve, it needs to be oiled heavily and broken in.)
6. I just installed the Level 10 kit, I have a full tank of air but nothing happens when I pull the trigger.
Turn up your velocity till the marker fires reliably and chrono.
7. I turned up my velocity all the way but the marker still doesn't fire.
Make sure you valve is getting at least 800psi. If you've gone through the rest of this section and nothing has helped you, I doubt your problem is level 10 related. Try the other marker links. If you cant figure it out, contact me.
8. When I first gas up I'm still getting a leak down the barrel even with the "0" size carrier.
You may have a bad o'ring, try starting over with a new one.
9. My level 10 is working great but I'm still chopping.
You may be getting barrel breaks(make sure the paint fits the barrel) or your nubbin/ball detent isn't doing it's job check it for problems.
10. My bolt foamie flew off, how do I replace it?
Use a good quality superglue, not rubber cement or hot glue. make sure you scratch off all the old glue, scratch the surface a bit with a screw driver so the glue has more contact surface and you should be fine. Put pressure on the foamie when you glue it for a while, and let the bolt air out anywhere but inside the marker so it could cure properly.
11. The valve doesn't degas like it used to, how do I take the valve out now?
Once you turn off the air supply, you have maybe 1-3 shots left. Pull the trigger to let out all the air you can, depending on your settings, you may even be able to move the front of the bolt a bit to release a little more air. All this should leave you with about 300psi +/- 100, so a slide check or pro-connect is not NEEDED but they do help. I personally dont use any right now. If there is enough pressure left in the lines though, you have a chance of blowing out the o'ring in the female part of the Q/D. By design that's just how it works, the o'ring acts like a cork and just holds pressure. If it bugs you, just buy a pro-connect. DO NOT try and bleed extra pressure by loosening the field strip screw. Depending on your set-up and tank, there are ways of releasing all of the pressure before disconnecting the lines.
12. The bolt itself fits inside of the body, but not inside of the barrel.
The Level 10 bolt is made wider than the level 7 bolt to reduce blowback. It measures .685" If you MUST use a barrel that's a .685 or smaller then you can polish the tip of the bolt a bit, and heavily polish the inside of your barrel. This will make the bolt more agreeable. You shouldn't have to do this, hardly any paint is that small anymore.
Automags.org
vBulletin Message