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Thread: Need help on my MagRifle

  1. #1
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    Question Need help on my MagRifle

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    Ok, I will try to explain this to the best of my abilities...

    I have a standard mag valve/rail/sear combo mounted into a rifle stock. It is all well and good except that I want to pull the sear back instead of push it back like a stock mag frame, in my mind this should pretty much be the same concept but when I try it out the following happens.

    Oops.. before the steps, the valve works great in a stock mag trigger frame (got that out of the way now)

    1. It airs up fine, no leaks, bolt is locked back with the sear
    2. I pull the camshackle attached to the sear (basically the same motion as pulling the trigger on a stock mag frame)
    3. It fires then just dumps air through the valve.

    I can get it to stop dumping air by pulling back on the camshackle, which pushes the on/off up. This is pretty tentative though since as the pressure builds in the valve it gets harder to hold. When I let go it just dumps air again. I try to push on the camshackle to try to get the sear to grab the bolt but this does not seem to work either.

    Any ideas?? I figured this would be a pretty easy part, but as D-day approaches I am rushing to get this part troubleshooted. Thanks guys!
    Last edited by bojangles1983; 05-28-2009 at 05:44 PM.
    Minimag, 16" Dye Titanium, Benchmark double finger, phase II, level 10, 88 4500, warp.

  2. #2
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    It sounds like your body and valve are loose or mounted off of your rail a little. How did you accommodate your rail bushing? The sear not going forward could be bolt stick from the valve, body, rail not being completely aligned.

  3. #3
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    The rail bushing is still in, I added a small washer to take up the bit of slack but it tightens down well. Everything seems pretty solid, just as if it was on a standard mag frame.

  4. #4
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    Plenty of clearance in your stock for the sear to come down on both ends and clear the sides?

  5. #5
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    Yes, I made sure of that after the first test I felt some resistance. Its about 1/2" wide in there and plenty deep to keep the sear away from any part of the body.

  6. #6
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    Is the valve sitting on only the rail? Could the stock be pushing on the valve, body and/or the barrel? Is the barrel free floated?

    Is that a twist-lock or ULE body?

    Make sure the front frame screw doesn't go too far in to a twist-lock body or isn't a little loose when it bottoms on a ULE. Also, on a twist-lock, check that the twist lock pin has clearance underneath and isn't pushing back up.

    If it works on a regular frame, it should be an alignment or clearance problem...

  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=Spider-TW]Is the valve sitting on only the rail? No, the body is mounted up just like normal.

    Could the stock be pushing on the valve, body and/or the barrel? The whole combo is sitting flush on the stock, its a complete unit that just sits in the body and then tightens down with the standard screws.

    Is the barrel free floated? Yes

    Is that a twist-lock or ULE body? ULE

    Make sure the front frame screw doesn't go too far in to a twist-lock body or isn't a little loose when it bottoms on a ULE... Took the front frame screw out just to see, still doing it.



    Working on a short video to show you

  8. #8
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    Bo , it sounds to me like your bolt is sticking WAY forward & air is escaping by your bolt stem , in stock Mags i've seen the front frame screw come up too far & hit the bolt ( think you checked this ) A detent screwed in too far will also cause this

    I bet it does get tough holding air psi with that little pin

  9. #9
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    Hey, got it figured out, like you guys said, it was all in the fit. The body,rail, valve was in pretty tight, but by changing a couple little things I was able to lock it down a bit better and now she is working great! Thanks for your help, I will add some picks when she is all finished up!

  10. #10
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    Some D-day pics would be best, but we will want to see it regardless.

    It looks like a good start.

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