Classic valve on/off pin adjustment

[Cyco-Dude]

Thanks that sounds pretty good. I'm sure once I fill up my flatline 45 tank it will make it easier. I could definitely use the practice also since this is my 1st mag. It was pretty easy with my previous LVL 7 setup. Do you know why the intelliframe makes it easier to sweetspot? Is it simply the double trigger?

yes. and where the sear rod contact the back of the trigger on the intelliframe (lower, rod has more leverage to kick trigger forward) vs a benchmark frame (higher, rod has less leverage to kick trigger forward). it's also why intelliframes have shorter, but stiffer trigger pulls and benchmark frames have longer, but softer, trigger pulls.

[athomas]

The retro valve works on pressure differential between input(tank) and chamber. A level 10 chamber has more residual pressure left after a shot, so the pressure differential is less and therefore results in less force pushing on the on-off pin to reset the trigger. You can still achieve good results though, with the right setup.

A full tank will make all the difference. It will allow maximum air flow through the tank regulator and therefore through the mag valve. Air flow is just as important as pressure when it comes to having a reactive valve.

[BassdudeBTB]

Thanks athomas that explains it a bit more.

So I got my LVL 10 setup and it seems to be working fine. I can only get it to chrono properly with the yellow stock spring. Red spring won't cycle under 300+ fps. I got my flatline tank filled and tried different input pressures to get it to sweetspot but its not possible... I cranked the pressure so high that I blew a macroline and my LP gauge. I was way over 1500psi and still no rapid fire! This leads me to believe that my reg piston in my flatline may be bad or out of spec. It should've vented out the front from overpressurizing right?
I tried with and without the shims in the on/off and no luck.
I tried to follow Zak Vetter's guide to rapid fire mags and I set my sear rod to 1mm from the trigger with no effect. (I used a feeler gauge to precisely set it and I marked the starting position so I can set it back.) Im stumped...
If I shorten my on/off pin, which side do I have to grind? I would think its the thin side but I don't know for sure... I believe it lowers the top part so it seals with less of the length of the fatter top part in the top o-ring.

Also should I enlarge the holes in the flatline for more airflow?
Would this destroy it?
I know AGD products are well engineered and I don't think others have had to do this but it's just a thought...

[Nobody]

Is this a classic valve? A RT'ing classic is more of a happy accident than in a RT mag or a mag that uses a ReTro/Emag/Xvalve.

[BassdudeBTB]

Is this a classic valve? A RT'ing classic is more of a happy accident than in a RT mag or a mag that uses a ReTro/Emag/Xvalve.

It's a Classic RT valve, on a Classic Automag RT.
I put a LVL10 in it.
I also made some shims that fit inside the stock on/off to mimic the effect of a shortened pin. (2 shims = 0.012") Easily removable. This worked great with the LVL 7 @ 1050 psi, but I would chop paint if I shot a long string.
Everything else in the valve is stock.
The gun has Doc's AC threaded adapter for barrels and a Q-loader. Everything else is stock.
I use a Flatline 4500 adjustable Reg to feed it air.

[Cyco-Dude]

It's a Classic RT valve, on a Classic Automag RT.
I put a LVL10 in it.
I also made some shims that fit inside the stock on/off to mimic the effect of a shortened pin. (2 shims = 0.012") Easily removable. This worked great with the LVL 7 @ 1050 psi, but I would chop paint if I shot a long string.
Everything else in the valve is stock.
The gun has Doc's AC threaded adapter for barrels and a Q-loader. Everything else is stock.
I use a Flatline 4500 adjustable Reg to feed it air.

what frame do you have on the rt? what o-rings are you using in the on/off? have you tried just walking the trigger instead of trying to bounce it?

[BassdudeBTB]

what frame do you have on the rt? what o-rings are you using in the on/off? have you tried just walking the trigger instead of trying to bounce it?

I have the stock carbon fiber frame. I believe they are the correct orings in the on/off but I have a fresh new rt rebuild kit I could drop in new orings. That's a good idea. I have a single trigger so I can't walk it but I can pull it kinda quick I guess. Since the LVL 10 the trigger feels kinda spongy with a longer pull... Maybe it's the orings?

[athomas]

I got my flatline tank filled and tried different input pressures to get it to sweetspot but its not possible... I cranked the pressure so high that I blew a macroline and my LP gauge. I was way over 1500psi and still no rapid fire! This leads me to believe that my reg piston in my flatline may be bad or out of spec. It should've vented out the front from overpressurizing right?

Also should I enlarge the holes in the flatline for more airflow?
Would this destroy it?

The reg piston in the flatline should be fine. The piston has some variance and the gauge you are reading has some error. Don't alter the air ports. They flow quite well as is if everything is working as it should.

Install the valve without the bolt. Air it up with the trigger held in. Then gently let the trigger out until air starts to vent out the front. That will give you an idea where trigger is when the on-off closes. Then install the bolt and air it up and gently pull the trigger. Take note of when the valve fires. If the distance between where the on-off closes and the valve fires is close, it will be easy to RT. If the distance is large, it won't RT. If you have a large distance, you will have to get a shorter pin.

[BassdudeBTB]

I got it working!! It was the on/off o-ring at the top. It was too tight and making the pin stick. I replaced it and trimmed the pin to .743" and it rips now! The LVL 10 works well with the yellow spring for now. I'll do more tweaking after I play a few games with it tomorrow. Thanks a lot guys for all the advice and tips! This community rocks!

[Andrew lee]

So what happen did you get it reactive?