Originally Posted by
1985phenom
This is a picture of the trigger rod with the emag valve. There is not a credit card gap and I believe this is due to the on/off pin pushing down on the sear and pushing the trigger rod further forward. It does not do this on my classic valve. Is my analysis correct?
With the little amount of air I had left (1100psi) I tested it again after adding some oil. It is odd that it shoots different when their is paint and when there is no paint. This leads me to believe that It is probably an o-ring issue as several of you have suggested. The reason for this is because I have not changed anything since I have purchased this valve. However the shooting dynamics have greatly changed.
The trigger rod isn't affected by the on-off pin length except if it can't generate enough force to fully rotate the sear assembly. The sear rotates forward and stops when the knob on the top of the sear, between the sear pin and the sear tip, makes contact with the bottom of the body. When the sear is fully reset, and the trigger is held against the safety (with the safety on), you should have a credit card gap between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod. Both the classic valve and the emag valve should cause the same rotation regardless of pin used.
The change in residual chamber pressure affects how reactive the valve is. When fired without paint, the chamber completely empties so there is a lot of pressure differential between the incoming tank pressure and zero chamber pressure. When fired with paint, not all of the air pressure leaves the chamber before the bolt resets. Therefore the pressure differential is less between the incoming tank pressure and the remaining chamber pressure. The higher differential pressure for an empty chamber gives a larger volume of incoming air pushing the trigger back with more sustained force which translates into a more reactive trigger.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Reply With Quote
